Troubleshooting

It is possible that distance between the cavaletti poles may be off. Check to make sure the distance between two poles is at your dog's withers height or twice your dog's elbow height. If your dog is still knocking over/stepping on the poles, try the following:

Set up 2 poles at a distance wider than your dog's withers height on the floor (e.g., if your dog measures 24" at the withers, set up the poles so they are 26" apart). Walk your dog over the poles slowly, it may be helpful to put a few cookies before the first pole and in between each pole to help slow them down. Do this a few times to help him understand the idea of being mindful of his feet. Depending on the individual dog, this may be achieved in one short session, or a few short sessions over a few days.

Once your dog is able to walk across the poles without knocking over/stepping on them, set up the poles so that the distance between the poles are your dog's withers height. Walk him over the poles a few times to remind him of the exercise. Slowly increase speed so that he is able to maintain a trotting gait.

Here are a few things to try:

1. Set up fewer poles (2-3 poles) at your dog's withers height on the floor or at the lowest height possible.

2. Set up 2 poles at a distance wider than your dog's withers height (e.g., if your dog measures 24" at the withers, set up the poles so they are 26" apart) to see if he is able to trot over them instead of jumping over them.

3. Try using an "anchor" at each end of the setup to help calm your dog. Mark as your dog reaches the anchor, and reward from your hand instead of throwing a cookie for them. Since the dog will be driving to the "anchor," they will still be focusing forward.

4. You can also put a few cookies before the first pole for your dog to eat. Slow down your movement and lowering your voice can often help calm your dog down as well.

Mark and throw the cookie before they finishes the last pole to keep them focusing forward. If you are working on fewer poles (e.g., 3 poles), this may mean that you are marking as they trot over the first pole! You can also try the "anchor" method.

Use your body language to help support your dog - i.e., turn your body towards the intended direction instead of facing your dog.

This is a very common to have, in fact, I am not a great cookie thrower either! I would recommend using a bigger bowl, and/or using bigger cookies (e.g., sliced up hot dogs/cheese are great options). Keep in mind that the bowl is there as a visual cue for the dog, your dog still gets the reward even when the cookie happens to fall outside of the bowl.

My marker word for both is, "YES." For me, the marker word here lets the dog know that the way he is moving across the cavaletti poles is correct. I do not have separate marker words to distinguish how the cookie is to be delivered - cookie from my hand on "anchor" object vs. cookie thrown into the bowl.

If you have separate marker words to distingush how cookie is being delivered, you can use them as well.

Yes and no. In the beginning, I would recommend measuring the distance every time to make sure the distance is correct. This is especially important if you are working multiple dogs. Even dogs of similar size may have slightly different measurements of height at the withers. It is important to adjust the distance of the cavaletti poles accordingly.

Once you are used to setting up the cavaletti poles for your dogs, you can usually eyeball the distance between poles and make slight adjustments accordingly.

I count out the number of cookies in my hand/pocket. For example, if I intend to do 10 reps, I would have 12 cookies in my hand. The first cookie is a free cookie at the start of the session. Cookies 2 to 11 are for the 10 reps. The 12th cookie is a free cookie for my dog for a job well done.